03040003
I made this clock as a freshman in high school. It was my first "big" wood project. It is made of 3/4" cherry, with hand-carved feet and hand-carved mortises where the sides meet the top and bottom.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 01:23:48 PM PST
I made this clock as a freshman in high school. It was my first "big" wood project. It is made of 3/4" cherry, with hand-carved feet and hand-carved mortises where the sides meet the top and bottom.
02250001
The door rails for a clock I'm making from walnut. I wanted an arch, but I don't have a bandsaw. Lots of relief cuts with my scroll saw is step one.
Date/Time: Sun 25 Feb 2007 03:37:49 PM PST
The door rails for a clock I'm making from walnut. I wanted an arch, but I don't have a bandsaw. Lots of relief cuts with my scroll saw is step one.
02250005
With the relief cuts finished, cutting with the scroll saw to the line is straightforward. Without the relief cuts, the blade flexes too much to cut on the line.
Date/Time: Sun 25 Feb 2007 03:51:15 PM PST
With the relief cuts finished, cutting with the scroll saw to the line is straightforward. Without the relief cuts, the blade flexes too much to cut on the line.
03040004
A picture of a jig I made to route the mortises that attach the sides to the top and bottom. I used a 3/8" straight bit and a template bushing. The template is 3/4" plywood, and the bushing is 1/8" OD larger than the bit.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 05:08:22 PM PST
A picture of a jig I made to route the mortises that attach the sides to the top and bottom. I used a 3/8" straight bit and a template bushing. The template is 3/4" plywood, and the bushing is 1/8" OD larger than the bit.
03040005
A closeup of the mortise and the jig. The jig is 1/16" wider on each of its three sides to accommodate for the template bushing.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 05:08:31 PM PST
A closeup of the mortise and the jig. The jig is 1/16" wider on each of its three sides to accommodate for the template bushing.
03040006
A picture of the clamping arrangement. The jig is attached using carpet tape, and the clamps hold it to the RAS top (which all too often serves as an assembly bench).
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 05:16:46 PM PST
A picture of the clamping arrangement. The jig is attached using carpet tape, and the clamps hold it to the RAS top (which all too often serves as an assembly bench).
03040007
A quick mockup testing the side-top-bottom fit.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 05:41:44 PM PST
A quick mockup testing the side-top-bottom fit.
03040008
The router makes rounded corners for the mortises. I could either chisel the rounded corners square, or I could round the edges of the sides. I chose to round the edges of the sides. I cut a relief at each corner with a handsaw and shaped the edges wit
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 05:42:33 PM PST
The router makes rounded corners for the mortises. I could either chisel the rounded corners square, or I could round the edges of the sides. I chose to round the edges of the sides. I cut a relief at each corner with a handsaw and shaped the edges with a hand rasp. Quick and effective.
03040009
Another mockup, after fitting each mortise (or is that a stop-dado...) This also has the Roman Ogee edge treatment on the top, bottom, and "cap" pieces.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 07:00:52 PM PST
Another mockup, after fitting each mortise (or is that a stop-dado...) This also has the Roman Ogee edge treatment on the top, bottom, and "cap" pieces.
03040010
This shows the rabbeting to receive the back of the clock. The clock back is 1/4" plywood. I used a straight bit in the router table to cut a rabbet 1/4" deep and 3/8" wide.
Date/Time: Sun 04 Mar 2007 07:01:06 PM PST
This shows the rabbeting to receive the back of the clock. The clock back is 1/4" plywood. I used a straight bit in the router table to cut a rabbet 1/4" deep and 3/8" wide.
03120002
Cleats glued and brad-nailed in place to hold the clock mechanism mounting board
Date/Time: Mon 12 Mar 2007 11:27:24 PM PDT
Cleats glued and brad-nailed in place to hold the clock mechanism mounting board
03130001
Side of clock with door mounted on hinges
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:11:21 PM PDT
Side of clock with door mounted on hinges
03130002
Front of clock, door mounted
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:12:04 PM PDT
Front of clock, door mounted
03130003
Front of clock, door open, showing mortised hinges
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:12:24 PM PDT
Front of clock, door open, showing mortised hinges
03130004
Close-up of mortised hinge. The hinges are thin, so the mortise was accomplished by using a razor knife to define the hinge outline, then cleaned out with a chisel and hammer.
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:13:24 PM PDT
Close-up of mortised hinge. The hinges are thin, so the mortise was accomplished by using a razor knife to define the hinge outline, then cleaned out with a chisel and hammer.
03130005
Back of clock. Back is held in with two small screws.
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:13:40 PM PDT
Back of clock. Back is held in with two small screws.
03130007
The door has a warp in it, and I was wondering what I had done wrong in the building process to cause it. Turns out that one of the stiles has a split in it. I hope I can repair this and bring the door back flat again.
Date/Time: Tue 13 Mar 2007 11:14:05 PM PDT
The door has a warp in it, and I was wondering what I had done wrong in the building process to cause it. Turns out that one of the stiles has a split in it. I hope I can repair this and bring the door back flat again.
Finished clock
The finished clock. The finish is a walnut stain, and 3 coats of semigloss polyurethane. For a long time I wouldn't stain walnut because I really like the color of the natural wood, but the stain I've been using doesn't alter the color of the heart wood
Date/Time: Sun 08 Apr 2007 03:26:03 PM PDT
The finished clock. The finish is a walnut stain, and 3 coats of semigloss polyurethane. For a long time I wouldn't stain walnut because I really like the color of the natural wood, but the stain I've been using doesn't alter the color of the heart wood but does even out the sapwood.
